Friday, February 10, 2006

Calm Before the Storm

What better way to commence than to fulfil a stereotype? Like a true Brit I will open up by discussing the weather. I am becoming more accustomed to the typical weather patterns of a Rio summer. At the moment we stand on the edge of another storm, though I forecast that it will not reach the grandiose scale of the last downpour. The pattern is thus: 6-8 days of uninterrupted blue sky sunny days, followed by 3-4 days of hot, but increasingly cloudy days, followed by 2 days of heavy rain and 2 days of grey cloud. It’s a cleverly self-regulating system, whereby the cloud, then the rain arrives in the nick of time to cool you down after the searing heat. The worst days are those immediately before the storm when the atmosphere is heavy with hot air, but the storm soon releases us from this pressure cooker to bring sweet fresh air.

Much to Niko’s chagrin I’m sure, there is actually another reason for today’s title that is only a metaphorical meteorological reference. Allow me to explain…

This week has been quiet – very quiet. Yesterday I was so bored that after exhausting all the activities available to me, I resorted to eating a large slice of watermelon specifically to see how precise my pip-spitting is. I got 14 out of 23 pips into the target zone. Not bad. Don’t be alarmed by my inactivity as there is a reason. The reason is simple, that from this coming Saturday for about 3 weeks things will get considerably busier, and I am therefore taking advantage of the present calm to save a bit of cash and build up my reserves of energy.

On Saturday, the first people arrive in Rio for our long-planned Carnaval trip. At that point I will officially be jointly responsible for the welfare of several gringos in this mad city. It’s a big responsibility and if I wasn’t in on this with a streetwise local (Alex) I’d be very nervous. Therefore, it is with characteristic Carioca calm that we enter into our first foray into the tour guide business.

The program of events starts officially on Wednesday and over two weeks will take in masterclass workshops in capoeira and percussion rythms, trips to tropical forest regions, beautiful beaches away from the tourist trail, a day in our local favela community and the musical lunacy that is the Rio carnival. I’m very excited and I’m optimistic that our guests will have the experience of a lifetime, as I did last year (its just occurred to me that I’ve sort of done a “I loved the product so much, I bought the business”). We certainly have an eclectic bunch joining us for our trip, which is sure to add to the fun. There’s Michael, a retired West Coast Yank looking for authentic Brazilian culture and lithe young ladies; Charlotte a forty-something single mum from Denmark who’s super-fit and a samba freak; Rajesh, an Aussie-Indian fusion with in insatiable appetite for poetic conversation and chatting up ladies (the latter usually being unsuccessful); Ugochi, a incredibly talented Afro-queen from Chicago who is rapidly becoming a pretty famous soul/hip hop singer; last but not least, Rory, a short, balding bespectacled Londoner who’s apparently never left England, but has recently become obsessed with capoeira. As is this crew wasn’t random enough, we can also throw the king of random himself, none other than our own Satpal, into the mix. He’s joining us out here in a couple of weeks. Can you see now why I’m keeping my head down this week? I’m forecasting a storm of craziness will burst all over Santa Teresa. Can’t wait for the stories to unfold.
Adios.

As a little ‘ps’ here’s some photos of my new house, which I moved into on Monday and will stay in for the next 3 weeks. It’s a little unusual…



There’s more photies on my flickr site.

Monday, February 06, 2006

Absence makes the heart grow fonder

just as i was getting on a roll with me bloggin, its gonna come to an abrupt halt. today i move to a new place and sadly there is no internet access. this is gonna put a temporary (though possibly prolonged) spanner in the works, so apologies if there's nothing new on here for a while. i will try with internet cafes and improvised alternatives, so be patient. the hole will return!

Friday, February 03, 2006

Health Matters

So it does, as my wonderfully named former colleague Seamus Reilly always says. You’d think that his name was Irish enough, but you’d be amazed at the number of times people tried to up the ante by erroneously naming him ‘Seamus O’Reilly’. And you know what else? One of my Top 3 All Time Greatest Moments as a corporate boy was spend in the company of Seamus. I’d convinced one of the Partners at E&Y (the big bosses) to arrange a meal at which we could entertain at contact of mine at Vodafone – a hot sales target for my team at that time. Seamus was our telecoms expert so he would be accompanying me for the dinner, and as he is also the finest gourmand I have ever come across, he jumped at the chance. Alas the Partner was ill on the day and couldn’t make the meal at Rhodes 21 (Gary Rhodes’ restaurant half way up the NatWest Tower), so Seamus stepped up to the plate and led proceedings. Our guest was treated to the finest hospitality courtesy of E&Y and we managed to run up a bill in excess of £500 between the three of us. Much fine wine was drunk, along (amongst other things) with filet steak tartare and a lobster omelette. It was all wrapped up with brandy and cigars. A job well done. The contact at Vodafone was of course Soks and despite the slim element of truth in my claim that he was “the right hand man to the global Chief Technology Officer” I’m pretty sure we didn’t discuss much about Vodafone all night. Quite an achievement in my book. Suffice to say that no sales were made following this high-powered business dinner.

The other two entries into my Top 3? One has to be the hour I spent in the casino of a 5* hotel in Moscow mixing it with Mafioso types and high class hookers. I managed to lose $100 in under 2 minutes playing blackjack, which again is quite an achievement. The other was this summer when I stayed up all night at our annual conference in Amsterdam. Having been steadily consuming champagne all evening, I ventured onto the beach at about 4.30am to watch the sunrise. Dressed in full dinner suit, armed with two magnums of champagne and accompanied by four willing accomplices (including Seamus himself) we sat in the sand until 7am swilling the fizz and putting the world to rights. I managed to follow this by going straight to breakfast where (pissed as a fart) I ate and conversed with the Global Head of my business unit who had risen early to catch a plane back to the US. Apparently I endeared myself to him with my straight talking northern ways. Long live the corporate game!

Now then, indulgent tangents aside, onto the main course – health matters. The best thing about writing a blog is that I’m in complete control of what is publish. My prerogative goes, with no editing or criticism. However, you also have a prerogative as to whether you read or not and I think you should prepare yourselves, as the next few paragraphs are going to explore a subject that still seems to be taboo even in the 21st century. Those of you who are easily offended should look away now, and whatever you do, try not to conjure images in your mind of what’s happening as you read it, but do persevere if you have the stomach for it as there are lessons I have learned that I think are best shared.

Today I’m going to write about….constipation, and I’m not going to stop there. I will also touch upon the final nightmare of all Spelling Bee contestants….haemorrhoids. Are you with me? Then let’s begin.

This morning I leapt into the air, pants around my ankles and raised my arms aloft in triumph – I’d just had a poo (I told you not to get the images in your head). So ended over five days of physical, mental and emotional trauma. Now, those of you who know me well (especially those who’ve had the dubious pleasure of living with me) will know that my bowels are a little unusual. The most obvious sign of this is the unfeasibly frequent and conspicuous gaseous emissions that I am able to produce. Having said that, I generally pride myself on the regularity of my solid bowel movements. I’ve been a ‘2 a day’ man for most of my adult life, and for the past 4 or so years could always be found enjoying #1 Number 2 of the day at approximately 10.15am, once I’d arrived at work. So imagine my horror when for over 5 days I can only manage 1 (highly unsatisfactory) dump. Yes, I was a trifle agitated.

It had all started on Friday, when I was running late (as usual) to catch my bus to Sao Paulo and failed to make time for my morning Dougie H (that’s Douglas Hurd to the uninitiated). My bowels could not be persuaded to part with their cargo at the half-way stop 3 hours into the journey, and thus a pattern was established for the next few days. Friday, Saturday and Sunday passed in Sao Paulo, with one measly blip all that was to show for countless attempts at coaxing out my waste. The return journey to Rio on Monday yielded no greater returns and even the familiar turf of my ‘home’ toilet could not produce the goods. Tuesday was a tortuous affair as by now I was certain I needed to release my baggage, but still nothing doing. I squeezed and strained, squatted and hovered, but all to no avail. By now I was decidedly anxious. A look at my face in the mirror revealed a man who was not in good health. I began to speculate on all manner of reasons for my malaise – kidney infection? Twisted bowels? An impediment in the workings? A blocked-up sphincter? I was working myself into a tizzy with all this wild speculation, but what could I do?

As luck would have it, inspiration came from an unexpected source – another person. In passing conversation, when we were walking to the shop, Alex (capoeira teacher – I’m guessing you know him by now right?) asked me (as people do) if I was OK today. The normal response would be “Sim. Tudo bem” as in “Yes. All good”, but instead, I responded “Actually I haven’t had a shit in 4 days.”. A slight chuckle, then “Uh-huh.”, came the unflustered reply, “Man, you have to eat more fruits and drink lots of water.”. All of a sudden a light bulb came on in my mind. I can do something about this.

To shed further light on the situation, I consulted Wikipedia, where sure enough there was confirmation that constipation can be eased by eating lots of fibrous fruits and gulping down plenty of water. Suddenly it all made sense. According to Wikipedia, constipation is commonly caused by dehydration, poor diet and anxiety caused by unfamiliar surroundings or stressful events. The day I left for Sao Paulo, I was a little hungover from too much beer the previous night, had been eating a diet of mainly deep fried crap for over a week and had been stressing out at getting myself from Rio to Sao Paulo. In fact, immediately prior to my first realisation of inability to poo, I was running around the bus station like a mad thing trying not to miss my bus, thus further dehydrating and stressing.

Now I had a rational explanation for my situation, I started to relax more. I was further buoyed by the Wikipedia claim that “it is not uncommon for bowel movement to occur once weekly”. Sweet. I still had 2 or 3 days to go. And there’s more. I learned that excessive straining over the bowl can exacerbate the problems by causing haemorrhoids to occur in the rectal area. Wow! This was a revelation. I’ll spare you the details of my examination, but suffice to say I realised I was doing myself no favours. From here on in, it was a different story. I was more relaxed knowing there was a way out. Simply gorge on fruit and water, chill out a bit, and stop trying to squeeze one out. It’ll happen when it needs to happen.

One day, half a watermelon, three pears, a papaya and several glasses of fresh mango juice later – hey presto. Today I’ve had no less than 4 mightily satisfying excretions. A sure fire victory for patience and fibre.

If you’re still reading, then I salute you. You have already begun to break free from the chains of an oppressive society that does not permit us to talk openly of our fundamental bodily functions. There is a serious lesson to learn though, which is this – health matters, and it should not be compromised for a silly matter such as embarrassment. I learned a lot about my body through this whole episode and feel much the wiser for it. I also hope that I will never again in the future avoid confronting health problems because they are difficult to talk about.

Today I had four fantastic poos – and I am proud of it!

Wednesday, February 01, 2006

When it rains, it pours

Last Wednesday somebody said to me, "Man, it hasn't rained for 3 weeks now. This is not normal." They were right. All the time I'd been here I'd seen nothing but blue sky and felt nothing but extreme heat. Not normal apparently for this time of year.

I think you know where this is going. That Wednesday night, we saw the first thunder storm for 3 weeks. A pretty spectacular event as lightening bolts lit up the evening sky and thunder claps drummed around the valley. The strange thing was that it didn't rain much. About 30 mins of somewhat unspectacular rain and that was that. We were left with an unbearably heavy, humid atmosphere that night. There was clearly more to come.

The following 2 nights had a pretty similar pattern. The skies threatened for most of the day, but only delivered a little rain. The wind was getting up all the time and the thunder and lightening battles were becoming ever more menacing. Then on Friday and Saturday it happened. The deluge was unleashed, big time. I can't recall the stats off-hand but it was A LOT OF RAIN! The first main downpour brought around 45mm of rain in under 10 mins and it continued at a steady rate for the best part of 48 hours. Rio was awash and it didn't pass without incident. A big part of the central downtown area was quickly overwhelmed and disappeared under several feet of water. The TV news showed scenes of chaos as cars and vans floated down the street. We learned later that day that 12 poor souls were drowned when an underground carpark they were in was flooded. The TV news didn't report this, but I'm told that these floods always cause terrible slides in the most poorly contructed favelas, taking houses, possessions and people away with them. A stark reminder of the force of Mother Nature and the precarious equilibrium that exists in less developed countries.

Thankfully for me, I had taken the decision to go to Sao Paulo this weekend, so missed the worst of the weather completely. Rio's mountainous, coastal landscape leaves it vulnerable to erratic weather, while Sao Paulo is further inland so escaped with a relatively mild shower.

I'd gone to Sao Paulo to visit Annika (another York basketball alumnus) who has been in Brasil and Argentina since September conducting fieldwork for her PHd. She's a clever girl, Annika, not least because she chose to specialise in International Relations and Economics in the aforementioned countries, and of course you have to do fieldwork out there don't you (all expenses paid)? I wish I'd thought of that. I'm probably doing her a disservice with that comment. She is a supremely talented academic and obtained all manner of scholarships to fund her fieldwork, so deserves every centavo.

Anyhoo, Annika was due to return to London very soon, so urged me to jump on the bus and get over to Sao Paulo for a chinwag over a choppe (draft beer). How could I resist? I have to admit to being a little tentative as to date I've barely ventured beyond my local area. This was a major adventure, but I was looking for some excitment, so decided to go for it. It turned out to be much easier than expected to transition from city to city - testament to the excellent long distance bus services that exist here. Its really amazing sometimes to see how far advanced so called '2nd World' countries can be in certain areas. National Express should be ashamed of themselves at what they offer in comparison to Brazilian buses.

So before I knew it, I was standing in another world. Sao Paulo is VERY different to Rio. Consider the facts - 10 million people live in central Sao Paulo (equivalent to inner London area, or Manhattan). The total population of Greater Sao Paulo is 18 million and rising, yet in 1900 there was a little over 100,000 people there. Thats what you call rapid growth. Also Sao Paulo does not possess the outstanding natural setting that Rio has. It is much more of a functional setting. As a result it could be considered the archetypal example of 'urban sprawl'. A vast conurbation that has grown exponentially to accomodate a surge of economic migrants, with minimal consideration for aesthetic qualities. The best analogy I could think of for Sao Paulo is that its a poor man's Tokyo. Not flattering, I admit, but the size and scale are on a par with Tokyo, there's just less shiny buildings and much more muck.

The contrast between Rio and Sao Paulo continues onto its inhabitants. Paulistas, in their urban jungle, centre of South American finance and (self-professed) intellectual capital of Brasil, are hard-working, practical people who enjoy mocking their beach-loving, laid back Carioca counterparts. I was never quite sure whether they truly resented Rio's people for lazing in the sun all day while the Paulistas are busy keeping Brasil's economy running. I'd like to think (as a trainee Carioca) that it was all tongue in cheek.

The other noticable thing about Paulistas is that they really don't look like Brazilians. For a start they clearly don't see the sun as much and, frankly made me look like a sun-worshipper when I was amongst them. Secondly, there's been so much immigration from overseas to the city that half the world is represented on each Metro train. The sizable Japanese community (the biggest outside Japan) is widely known about, but I saw so many Italians, Germans, Arabs and more that I had to keep reminding myself where I was. In this respect it is very similar to London so I instantly felt more at home.

So that was Sao Paulo. I'm gonna cut things short here as I'm being bombarded by mozzies. The little bastards are after my feet again. Just chance to say a big thankyou to Annika for hosting me in Sao Paulo and good luck readjusting to London! I hope the weather eases you in with some sunshine.

tchau for now.